Services

Painting, Drywall, and Wood Rot Repair in Memphis

Here's what I take on, and what the work actually involves. If you don't see your job listed, call and ask. After 50 years there's not much I haven't run into.

Interior Painting

Walls, ceilings, trim, doors, and built-ins.

Before any paint goes on:

  • I move and cover what’s staying
  • I patch the holes and cracks, and sand the patches flat
  • I caulk the gaps at the trim
  • I spot-prime the repairs so they don’t flash through the finish
  • Then I cut in by hand and roll the field

I use Sherwin-Williams Duration when you want a wall you can actually scrub, and Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel on the trim, doors and cabinets, because it dries harder than a wall paint and won’t yellow the way an oil enamel does.

You get straight lines at the ceiling and a finish that doesn’t show every repair I made.

Interior painting

Exterior Painting

Siding, soffits, fascia, porch ceilings, shutters, and doors.

Memphis heat and humidity break down a bad exterior job fast, so prep matters more here than anywhere.

  • I pressure wash
  • I scrape the loose paint and sand the edges so they don’t telegraph through
  • I replace any soft wood I find
  • I caulk the joints
  • I prime the bare spots before the topcoat

I use Sherwin-Williams Duration exterior coatings.

Done this way, an exterior repaint is a once-a-decade job instead of a once-every-three-years job.

Exterior painting

Commercial Painting

Offices, storefronts, warehouses, common areas, and rental turns.

Commercial work has a different problem than a house: you can’t shut down for a week.

  • I schedule around your hours, including evenings and weekends
  • I keep the work area contained
  • I clean up at the end of every shift so you can open the next morning

Same prep and the same coatings I use on a home.

The standard doesn’t drop because it’s a lease space.

Commercial painting

Drywall

Hanging, finishing, and repair.

Most of what I get called for is repair: nail pops, cracked corner bead, water damage from a roof or a supply line, and holes from a doorknob or a plumber.

  • I cut back to solid board
  • I back the patch so it can’t move
  • I tape and coat it
  • I feather the mud out far enough that you can’t find it under a coat of paint

Matching an existing texture is the part most people get wrong. It’s worth taking the time on.

Taped and finished drywall seams with a taping knife and mud pan

Rotten Wood Replacement

Soft trim around windows and doors, rotted fascia and soffit, porch columns, and door jambs gone spongy at the bottom.

  • I cut out everything soft
  • I find where the water was getting in and fix that first — otherwise the new wood rots too

For the replacement I use LP SmartSide and SmartTrim, which I pick up from 84 Lumber. It’s made to resist moisture and insects in a way standard pine trim can’t, which is why the repair holds instead of coming back, and the SmartTrim carries a 50-year limited warranty.

When the rot has gone into the window itself and not just the trim around it, I can set a NEVEROT window from Central Woodwork — everything on it that sees weather is cellular PVC, so that sill isn’t back on the list in ten years.

Rotted wood trim crumbling at the corner of a window

General Repairs and Remodeling

Doors that won’t latch, trim and baseboard, crown molding, closet build-outs, deck boards and railings, siding repair, and small remodels.

I’ve been a general contractor long enough to have done most of it at least once.

Flooring I can source through ProSource Wholesale Floorcoverings.

If a job needs a licensed electrician or plumber, I’ll tell you that up front instead of taking it on and hoping, and I can usually tell you who to call.

General repairs and remodeling

Free estimates. Call or text.

Tell me what's going on and I'll come look at it. The estimate is free, and there's no charge to walk away.

Call 901-370-7337